Farewell Korea

BBM KOREA | Incheon, South Korea | Farewell KoreaThe idea of writing this post seems so strange. While I flew out of Incheon airport one week ago, it still doesn’t feel real that I won’t be going right back. At this time last Thursday, I was wrapping up my final classes, grading end of semester tests, and finishing my last report cards painfully trying to ignore the fact that I would be leaving in less than 24 hours.

How did the time go so quickly?! Thinking back to the summer of 2015, I so clearly remember tensely packing my two huge suitcases to fly to Korea and start this adventure. I was anxious about where this decision would lead but excited and ready to try something new. Never could I have imagined that a one-year hiatus from my Chicago life would so easily become a two-year reality.

In the time that I was away from home, I met incredible new friends, decorated a sweet little apartment, mastered a new job, taught over 400 students, and got to travel the world. I feel so lucky to have had such an incredible experience.

While it doesn’t quite seem like time, indeed the time has come to say a grateful farewell to the country that allowed me to make it my home away from home. Thank you, Korea, and I’m sure we will meet again.

As for now, I’m currently off on an entirely different adventure as I continue my explorations through Asia for the next three months. Follow along via Instagram.

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#bbmtravels.

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Ganghwado Island

BBM KOREA | Ganghwado, South Korea | Goryeosan MountainEvery few weekends or so I find myself wanting to get away from bustling streets of Seoul and Incheon and explore new parts of Korea. That said, the recent start of the warm summer months has really amped-up those feelings and has had me reminiscing of past getaways. One of my favorites from last spring was the day trip some friends and I took to Ganghwado Island in search of azaleas on Goryeosan Mountain.

As per usual the day started off well enough catching our first bus for the two-hour journey to the island. We made it in time to grab a quick lunch catch a second local bus, which was when things got a bit more interesting.

Expecting a long bus ride, we unintentionally missed our stop which unbeknownst to us was announced in Korean just a few minutes into the trip. Twenty minutes or so later we found ourselves  taking a scenic tour of the island. Bus number one took us along the northern most part of the coast line which just happens to share a thin river’s border with North Korea. As we looked outside the bus’s windows just beyond the barbed wire fences and across the water was indeed N. Korea. Though taking tours of the border are quite common via the DMZ, somberly being flagged through military check points, passing by bulky soldiers holding guns the size of some of my students, and  setting eyes on that part of the world in general was surreal, eerie, and beyond unexpected.

lostOnce we had made it further inward on the island we realized we were definitely lost and actually traveling away from our destination. At that point, we decided to hop off the bus and trust our luck to catch another bus returning in the direction of the mountain we were so desperate to find. Forty-five minutes, two peeled oranges, one snack sized bag of peanut M&Ms, and a few pictures later we managed to hail a lone taxi that seemed destined to pick us up. After a brief drive we were dropped at an azalea festival which we wandered for a bit before starting our hike up Goryeosan Mountain.

About half way up the mountain we came across a Buddhist temple and a tea shop. We stopped for a cup of tea and some snacks before exploring around the temple and eventually making our way back to the hiking trail.

BBM KOREA | Ganghwado, South Korea | Goryeosan MountainFinally reaching the peak late in the afternoon we were able to take in the sun and the spectacular views of the island. Being from the midwest where even a good sledding hill is rare, seeing the lush mountains that cover Korea is always a breathtaking experience.

Though this was a brief day trip, it was nice to get out of the city for a bit and take in a little bit of natural scenery.

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#bbmkorea

Holi Hai

IMG_4531Just about a year ago a group of friends and I headed south for a weekend of festivals. We spent Saturday in Jinhae for the cherry blossom festival and then headed to Busan for the Holi Hai festival on Sunday.

I remember sitting in a world cultures class in high school learning about this festival in India and immediately adding it to my bucket list. While I still have every intention of making it to India someday to celebrate the festival in its country of origin, seeing the festivities in Busan has been one of the most incredible experiences I’ve had since moving to Korea. Holi Hai is a celebration of spring, friendship, and equality, and those ideas were truly embraced on that Sunday afternoon.

IMG_4594We woke up Sunday morning in Busan which was incredible enough on its own. Busan is a seaside city and always makes me feel like I’m in California rather  Korea. It has a much more laid-back vibe than up north were we live.

This particular weekend, we were lucky enough to be just a five-minute walk from the water. I spent a lazy morning walking around the town exploring alleyways and searching for coffee. Around 11 we made our way to the festival along with hundreds of other people dressed in white. As we walked along the beach we spotted the tents and were greeted by an incredible burst of color as Holi Hai began.

BBM KOREA | Busan, South Korea | Holi Hai FestivalOnce everyone in our group picked up their color packets we ventured into the mass of people celebrating. Indian music was blasting, people were dancing, and color was everywhere. There were hundreds of people, some tourists, some fellow expats, and many transplants from India who were more than happy to share their culture with us; pulling anyone into the circle that seemed to be drifting away.

We spent the next few hours dancing, throwing color, and eating some much appreciated Indian food. As the festival ended we attempted to clean ourselves off as best we could, got a quick caffeine fix, and made our way to the subway to travel back to Incheon.

Jeju Island {days five and six}

BBM KOREA | Jeju Island, South Korea After a few wonderful days in Jeju City, our vacation was dwindling down to just two more days. We had a few things left on our to-do list, one of which was visiting Manjanggul Cave, a UNESCO World Heritage sight that is a cave formed from a lava tunnel.

We started our fifth day in Jeju City making our way to Manjanggul via a journey of bus rides and transfers. Once dropped off at the bus stop we continued on a mile or so walk that was actually quite picturesque. We followed a long and sleepy tree lined road, speckled with wildflowers, until finally making it to our destination.

BBM KOREA | Jeju Island, South Korea | Manjanggul CaveWhen we arrived, we were greeted by a vine covered staircase entrance into the cave.  We followed along the one kilometer path through the lava tunnel enjoying the chilly climate that was so different from the sweltering streets of Jeju.

Though dark, the tunnel acted as a museum at some points, sharing information of how the cave was formed thousands of years ago. We explored for a while taking in the dimly lit scenery and appreciating the great, nearly unimaginable, stalactites.

Later we headed back into the city towards our hostel and geared up for our final day on the island.

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BBM KOREA | Jeju Island, South Korea | Iho Tawoo BeachOur last day started with us packing our bags and quickly dropping them off at the airport before catching a cab to the beach to soak in some sun before boarding our flight that evening. We had an incredible cab driver pick us up who tried his absolute best to communicate with us in his broken English and we attempted our best broken Korean. Though we had to act out words for ‘beach’ and ‘swimming’, he had no problems telling us his opinions of what was at the time the upcoming 2017 presidential election.

We spent a few hours on Iho Tewoo Beach swimming, snacking, and reading before grabbing another taxi back to the airport.

BBM KOREA | Jeju Island, South Korea

After six glorious days, we boarded the plane with salt-water in our hair and and sand in our bags.  We watched from the airplane window as the sun set and we flew back into Incheon, and back to our regularly scheduled lives of teaching English. Though short, it was an incredibly rejuvenating summer vacation and exactly what we all needed.

Jeju Island {Days Three and Four}

BBM KOREA | Jeju Island, South Korea | SeogwipoAfter a few days exploring Seogwipo we would be traveling back up to Jeju City, but not before paying a quick visit to Art Street and stopping  by the sweetest little tea shop we had seen from the street the day before. We drank our tea and bought our home-made knickknacks and then went to board our bus back to the northern side of the island.

Once we made it to Jeju City we took some time to explore, found a great Italian sport for dinner, and walked along the coast as the sun set. Something I loved about this particular stretch of the coast was that it reminded me a lot of Chicago. While the lakefront of Chicago has some beaches, most of it is a walking path which was similar to where we found ourselves in Jeju City. It was a wonderful little unexpected taste of home.

On our first full day in Jeju City we decided to venture out to Udo Island, a smaller island off the coast of Jeju known for its peanut ice cream and serendipitous delights. It was an adventure getting there, two busses and a ferry, but it turned out to be one of my favorite days that I’ve had in Korea thus far.BBM KOREA | Jeju Island, South Korea | Udo Island

Minutes after exiting the ferry we were eating our first helping of their famous ice cream, just before renting scooters to tour the island on. We scooted our way all around Udo until we found a beach to settle on for a while.

At the end of the day we returned our scooters, got another serving of peanut ice cream, and boarded the ferry once again ready for our long bus ride back into the city. It was an incredible day spent frivolously enjoying island live and gloriously taking in a healthy dose of nature that we generally are lacking in mainland Korea. For anyone who travels to Jeju Island I sincerely recommend visiting Udo Island, its well worth a day trip.

 

Jeju Island {Day Two}

After an exciting first day in Jeju, we were ready to continue our adventures with a packed day of exploring Seogwipo. I started my morning early, going for a quick run around a park near our hostel, and I was pleasantly surprised by the scenery. Palm tree lined paths allowed look out points cut out from the greenery, and I finally found the view of Cheonjiyeon Waterfall that we had such a hard time finding the day before.

Following my run I met back up with the girls for a quick coffee, and then we were off chasing another waterfall. We grabbed a bus that took us to the entry point of Jeongbang Waterfall and then let the pathway guide us to the falls. I let my eyes glance down the staircase taking us to the edge of the waterfall where I saw colorful spots of people along the rocks lining the water.

Ironically, the day before I had been dying to escape the hot humidity that is Korea in July and dive into the water at the Cheonjiyeon Waterfall. Little did I know that was exactly what was allowed at Jeongbang. I couldn’t have gotten my shoes off any faster.

BBM KOREA | Jeju, South Korea | Jeongbang WaterfallOnce we had taken 100 or so photos we decided to leave the refreshing mists of the falls and start making our way to Sanbanggulsa Temple.

Our directional skills failed us slightly on the way to the temple, but that simply gave us an excuse to explore the countryside streets of Jeju. After a bit of a walk back from our mistaken bus stop, we set eyes on a giant golden Buddha and knew we had made it to the right place.

Sanbanggulsa Temple is known for a few different reasons. One is the immense golden Buddha we could see from the street, but another is the grotto which houses another Buddha statue. We toured various corners of the temple and eventually decided to start the hike up Sanbanggulsa Mountain towards the small cave.

We donned our hard hats as a precaution for falling rocks, followed the stairs, and about 20 minutes later we found ourselves in front of the cave. A woman was there devoutly making her 108 bows which was fascinating to watch as she must have been in her 80s. The idea of her making it all the way up to the cave and then proceeding with her bows is incredible dedication. We let her finish and then, as respectfully as possible, took some pictures and soaked in the space.

BBM KOREA | Jeju, South Korea | Sanbanggulsa TempleIn my travels I must have visited dozens of various temples at this point, but each one grabs my attention in a new way. They are so beautiful and feel so sacred and offer such an interesting insight into the beliefs of those who follow the respective religion.

After making our way down from the grotto we walked around the grounds a bit more. Then we were back on a bus headed towards our hostel once again to grab dinner – a delicious black pork burger which the island is known for.

The next day would be a busy one of traveling up to the northern side of Jeju.

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Jeju Island {day one}

BBM KOREA | Incheon, South Korea Finally it was summer vacation. One thing I’ll say about Korea is that there’s a descent amount of public holidays, but they really don’t space them out efficiently. I joyfully boarded the small plane that would be taking some friends and I to Jeju Island. Known to some as the Hawaii of Korea. Two hours after boarding we landed in what is now my favorite part of this little country. Hands down.

We decided to split our six days between the northern and southern sides of the island. Just as we hopped off of the airplane we hopped into a bus for a quick ride down to Seogwipo. We were dropped off next to our hostel where we quickly left our bags before going off to explore.

BBM KOREA | Jeju Island, South Korea | Cheonjiyeon WaterfallWe knew that the Cheonjiyeon Waterfall was within walking distance and at some places could even hear it. Finding it was another task entirely though. We walked around the island following maps and street signs for what felt like hours. Eventually we made it to the park for the falls, where we walked along the path stumbling upon little bits of character all the way.

Jeju is known in part for its gorgeous waterfalls and this one was just a taste of what we would continue to see on the island. We basked in the mist of the falls while taking our pictures before heading back into town to find a spot for lunch.

Once again we found ourselves wandering through the streets before coming across a little husband and wife run restaurant where we ordered something unknown in Korean just happy to sit and relax in the air conditioning. Next thing we knew, dozens of side dishes were brought to our table and lunch was served.

BBM KOREA | Jeju Island, South Korea After lunch our group split up. One friend and I decided to brave the 90 degree heat and walk the town.  Along our way  we found a bustling street market and a charming café filled with vintage books and tropical leaves on each stainless steel table top. I also had the best coconut ice of my life.

A couple of hours later we headed back to the hostel for a quick nap and dinner where we would  make a plan for the following day in Jeju.

 

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National Foundation Day on Nami Island

BBM KOREA | Nami Island, South KoreaA string of national holidays in October leads to a number of long weekends in the beginning of fall and a lot of opportunities to explore the country. One of these holidays is National Foundation Day which is a celebration of the founding of Korean as a nation. While this year I’ll be doing some adventuring outside of the country, last year I used the the extra day off work to explore Nami Island {one of over 30 islands in Korea}  with a friend.

Nami Island is interesting because it’s not a beachy or  mountainous island like many of the other ones are. Instead, Nami Island feels a little more artsy. It’s a small island filled with sculptures, art installations, and interesting bohemian attractions, think ostriches and sky bikes.

We arrived on the island later in the afternoon after stopping for lunch on the mainland and catching a quick ferry ride over.  We were greeted right away by a gorgeous walk way filled with trees and what appeared to be balloons of some sort hanging between the limbs. We strolled through without a plan, ready to simply enjoy anything the island had to offer. And it did have a lot to offer.BBM KOREA | Nami Island, South Korea

It didn’t take long for us to stumble upon the ostriches. While they weren’t exactly free roaming, they also weren’t fenced in with much at all. I kept waiting for one to nock the rickety wooden barrier right over and start exploring the island for itself.

After a few selfies with the ostriches we continued wandering the island passing sculptures and art installations galore. Then one quick turn and we found the sky bikes.  These were small two seater bikes complete with seat belts and cannopy as you pedal through the sky on a raised track around the island.

BBM KOREA | Nami Island, South KoreaTowards the end of the day we went off the beaten path a bit and discovered a quiet area on the  edge of the island by some water to watch the sunset. As we started making our way back to catch the ferry home we realized that those “balloons” from the tree lined path were in fact little white lanterns that magically lit up the trail as we waited in line for the ferry. A perfectly charming ending to a long and exciting day.

BBM KOREA | Nami Island, South Korea

I had no idea what to expect from Nami Island, but I quickly fell in love with this island and look forward to going back to continue exploring. National Foundation Day is quickly approaching once again this year which means a three day weekend and another quick getaway. As always I’ll be posting about the trip on Instagram so be sure to check it out!

Chuseok Weekend in Muuido

The beginning of fall in Korea is filled with long weekends and days off of work.  One of these breaks happens to be for Chuesok weekend, which is similar to Thanksgiving in the U.S. With Chuseok quickly approaching once again this week I’m taking a moment to look back at last year’s holiday and how much I’ve learned since then.

After a long month getting used to life in Korea and working with kids each day some friends and I decided that a little beach get away would be a much welcomed escape from our new chaotic lives. Living in Incheon, we are lucky enough to have an amazing little island just about an hour away called Muuido Island. We hadn’t done a great amount of research prior to leaving for the island and were planning on seeing where the weekend would take us. Adventure time!

IMG_0455We left early Saturday afternoon for an overnight stay on the island. Catching the subway and bus were fairly easily, and we got only slightly turned around once we got off at our stop. The next bit of the trip was much more memorable as we realized we would have to walk across an incredibly narrow bridge, lacking any kind of guard rail, as cars and busses drove by; some slowing down to avoid us and others not so much. After about ten minutes of cautiously creeping our way along, a middle-aged man offered us a ride across the rest of the way. And just like that we graciously accepted the offer hoping the backseat of a stranger’s car would be safer than the treacherous bridge. It was a good call too because we ended up just making the last ferry of the day. Once on the island we found a local bus driver to take us to the beach, and made it right in time for sunset.

When we arrived the tide was over a mile out which was surprising, but turned out to be really interesting. We walked all the way out as the sun was setting to really put our feet in the water. Once we were back on shore we headed to one of the few restaurants on the island for some soju and Korean bbq on the beach.  After dinner it was time to go back to our little hut on the beach and enjoy a good nights rest on the heated floor.

muuido_chuseok lunch

Day two was an amazing day of zip lining, hiking, sitting on the beach, and exploring when the tide was out. It was exactly what we needed. We were even invited to Chuseok lunch by the sweet Korean family in the hut next to us. We met three generations of family celebrating the weekend on the beach and enjoyed a delicious traditional lunch with them.

 

 

At some point during the day we decided to ditch our plans of going home and stay an extra night.

During round two of soju and Korean bbq we heard something very rare for us now. It was an English conversation being spoken only a few tables over. We were then invited to join a group of four fellow English teachers from England. We had a great dinner together ended up having a fun rest of the night sitting around a bonfire on the beach, lighting some sparklers, and listening to Shania Twain. Doesn’t get better than that.

We woke up the next morning, had a quick breakfast on the beach while the tide was in, and then sadly departed to get back to normal life on the mainland. Luckily our journey home was simpler than our adventure getting there. In those two days this island stole my heart. It was by no means tropical, but it was relaxing and exactly what we all needed for the long weekend.

Chuseok 2016 is now just days away and having been in the country already I had much more time to plan for the five-day break from school. I’m so excited for the upcoming trip out of the country. Any quick break from work is a reason to do some more exploring. Be sure to follow along on Instagram. I look forward to sharing the journey.