A Few Days Spent in Hiroshima + Miyajima

As my time in Japan was coming to an end I had two last stops to make in Hiroshima and Miyajima. I left Osaka in the morning and was excited to be in Hiroshima by early afternoon, but not before taking a few hours to spend on the island of Miyajima.

BBM TRAVELS | Miyajima, Japan Miyajima is a tiny little island most well known for The Great Torii, an orange shrine that stands alone in the water, though it should be just as well known for its wandering deer population. As I disembarked the ferry that took us to the island I was greeted by a sweet little deer that was curious about the people it was seeing, as well as what snacks they may have to offer. Soon enough one deer became three, and they were not afraid to nibble on whatever someone had in hand. As I wandered there seemed to be countless deer throughout the island who were happy to be amongst the tourists and not at all bothered by the selfies everyone was excited to take.

BBM TRAVELS | Miyajima, Japan | The Great ToriiAfter taking in the deer and the natural scenery of the island, it didn’t take long to come across the beautiful Itsukushima Shrine that the island is known for. There it sat beautifully in the water as if it was floating.

I decided to take some time and wander through the parks and side streets of the island. Between the lush greenery, endearing wildlife, and beautiful wooden architecture, I  couldn’t help feeling like I was in Snow White’s back yard.

 

A few hours later it was time to make my way back to Hiroshima.

BBM TRAVELS | Hiroshima, Japan | Peace Memorial ParkHiroshima became one of my favorite cities that I visited in my time in Japan. It’s quaint but still convenient, and as always the people were absolutely lovely. I started my first full day in the city visiting Peace Memorial Park, an experience that was 100 times more moving than I ever could have anticipated. Perhaps it was because of the growing tensions between the U.S. and North Korea, but every monument and every plaque seemed to hold so much relevant significance. Throughout the park there was an overwhelming feeling of peace and hopefulness that was really inspiring.

One of the moments that brought a tear to my eye was when I went over to the Children’s Peace Monument which was built to memorialize all of the children who passed away as a result of the bombing. As I crossed the street I noticed a few bus loads of children quickly filing in for a field trip. They all came in quietly taking a seat around the monument and removing their hats before their teacher led them in a moment of silence and started speaking about the monument.

BBM TRAVELS | Hiroshima, Japan | Peace Memorial ParkThere seemed to be field trips all over the park that day. Some classes had clip boards and were taking notes, some were split into smaller groups listening to a tour guide who would show them pictures and documents, but each group stood at every monument and took that moment of silence. I couldn’t help but be curious as to what Japanese students learn about that day in school. What were their teachers telling them? I have to imagine that their history lesson differs from the U.S. version in some ways.

BBM TRAVELS | Hiroshima, Japan | Hiroshima Castle
After spending many more hours in the park than I had anticipated, taking in all of the history I decided it was time to get lunch. I found a tiny restaurant and treated myself to the most delicious pork cutlet and rice. Then I was off to find the Hiroshima Castle. It was gorgeous, sitting in the middle of a park surrounded by a lovely moat. I’ll never get sick of those Japanese castles.

Post Hiroshima I was off to Hong Kong for the weekend before continuing my travels on to Cambodia. It was a fantastic two weeks in Japan that I feel so lucky to have had.

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A Day in Kobe

BBM TRAVELS | Kobe, JapanAfter spending a day in Osaka and seeing everything I felt I needed to see, I decided to make a spur of the moment trip to Kobe, and I’m so glad I did.

This town is probably known best for its fantastic Kobe beef, however, I found the city of Kobe to be utterly charming and one of my favorite stops in Japan. It’s a little calmer than Osaka, but offers plenty to do when spending the day there.

Once I’d arrived in Kobe I decided to head to Chinatown which oddly enough really did remind me of my very recent trip to Beijing. It was fun to roam the streets and see all of the food stalls selling some the the tasty bites I’d just been eating in China. That said, I was on a mission to find one food stall in particular.

BBM TRAVELS | Kobe, Japan | Kobe BeefThe previous day I’d read on a few blogs that there was a budget friendly food stand selling delicious Kobe beef for about $15, perfect for a backpacker’s budget. Following the blogs’ directions, I found myself right in the center of the market ordering a plate of Kobe beef which came with a little side of corn and green onions. Not being much of a beef eater, I hadn’t been expecting a whole lot, but, oh. my. gosh. was it divine. Unbelievably tender, and the sauce that they add on top is incredible as well. It turns out that the stand is a small street branch of a larger restaurant which, I’m assuming, is how the quality is so good.

After that delicious lunch I wanted to visit the Nunobiki Waterfall which lies just past the train station. It’s easily walkable, but also happens to sit below an herb garden that seemed pretty to visit. It also looked like it had a very Instagramable greenhouse that I wanted to check-out. I decided to take a cable car up to the top of the mountain, wander through the herb garden, and then walk back down hoping to come across the waterfall.

Okay, let’s talk about this cable car ride… Before heading into the building to buy a ticket and board the glass walled cable car, I met a bumblebee that was absolutely no smaller than the size of a U.S. silver dollar. Luckily I was close to the front door and able to quickly sprint inside. Crisis averted. I naively boarded the cable car ready for a peaceful 10 minute ride up to the top of the mountain.

Roughly 90 seconds or so into the  journey I was soaking in the beautiful Kobe skyline outside when I felt an odd buzzing sensation to the left of my topknot. I turned to the side only to see that the formerly mentioned Megalodon of bumblebees was back, and staring me right in the face. What unfolded over the next two minutes included some prayers, some screams, and ultimately a lot of swatting. Finally, I was able to get the mega-bee out through the only small rectangular window that had been, miraculously, left open. Within another 30 seconds I was at the half-way point of the cable car ride where the lovely attendant told me to stay seated and continue the journey to the top of the mountain. No longer feeling like I was in a scene from Final Destination, locked in a swinging glass box with a massive bumblebee,  dangling hundreds of feet over a mountain,  the rest of the ride was much more serene.

BBM TRAVELS | Kobe, Japan | Nunobiki WaterfallI arrived safely atop the mountain and took an hour to explore the gardens and greenhouses. My favorite was the rose garden which still had some delightful garden roses in bloom and smelled just wonderful.

When I’d finished exploring the gardens I decided it was time to hike back down the mountain in search of the waterfall.  After a few twists and turns I started to hear the rumble of the falls, and the next thing I knew I was standing in front of the most beautiful tiered waterfall. It was all I could do not to spend the rest of my day sitting in awe, but I still had a lot of Kobe that I wanted to explore.

Before doing some research I had no idea that Kobe, or Japan for that matter,  had a very popular European district dotted with western architecture. The Kitano district of Kobe is filled with colorful, colonial-style homes and buildings, and the streets actually remind me very much of the historical part of my own home town in the suburbs of Chicago. Definitely an interesting surprise to find in central Japan.

As the sun was starting to set I still wanted to visit the harbor and see the giant ferris wheel lit up at night. I decided to walk about a mile back to the subway station and see the streets of Kobe. It was still hard to believe how different the city was compared to the farm town I had been expecting.

BBM TRAVELS | Kobe, Japan | Kobe Harbor Ferris WheelI made it to the harbor just as day turned to night and was able to see the skyline all lit up. Again I couldn’t help associating the pier with home as it reminded me so much of Navy Pier back in Chicago. It was built up to include a museum, lots of shops and restaurants, and a giant ferris wheel.

I took in the scenery before heading back to Osaka, so happy to have unexpectedly visited this fantastic pocket of Japan.
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Visiting Osaka

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After having a few days to visit Kyoto and Himeji, I was moving on to Osaka. Osaka is the second largest city in Japan following Tokyo and is known for being home to Japan’s Universal Studios, Osaka Castle, and the famous tourist area, Dotonbori.

Waking up in a major city, I was excited by the prospects of finding an acupuncturist who might speak even just a bit of English. Towards the end of my time in Korea a friend introduced me to a natural medicine clinic across the street from our apartments and I’ve been a little obsessed with acupuncture ever since. That said, with some determination in my google searching and a few short emails I made myself an appointment for that afternoon.

I had a much harder time finding the office than I’d anticipated, but found a multitude of people who did their best to help me find the hidden annex building. Special shout out to the man working at Toyota car rental who actually printed out a map and drew the path I would need to take, as well as, the woman working at the hospital who  knew I was in the wrong place and walked with me down the block to the correct office.  I think I’d still be wandering the streets of Osaka had they not offered their assistance.

Finally making it to the acupuncturist we made very brief introductions, and I tried my best to explain that my shoulders and hips were sore from walking and carrying my backpack. She said, “okay,” and we got started.

BBM TRAVELS | Osaka, Japan | Osaka CastleThe acupuncture in Japan was much different than what I’d received in Korea. She put a few needles on my back then after 10 minutes took them out, asked me to turn over, and repeated the process. She also spent about 30 minutes helping me to stretch, which I had never experienced before. That said, it was really helpful. Even now weeks later, I’m still feeling better.

Conveniently, the acupuncture office was just a half hour walk to Osaka castle which was on my list of places to se. And since the castle came up in Google Maps, the walk to get there was much easier.

BBM TRAVELS | Osaka, Japan I spent the next two hours walking around the gorgeous white and green castle and the part that surrounds it. Everything about that castle made me feel like I was living in a fairytale. The Japanese architecture was so beautiful and perfectly complimented by the lush part that surrounds it. There were even people sailing in gold canopy boats through the moat to get a closer look at the structure.

I decided to walk through the park and then journey back the mile and a half to my hostel and explore all of the side streets of Osaka. There is just something about walking through Japan that is so intriguing and yet calming at the same time. The entire country just has this energy that is hard to describe.

BBM TRAVELS | Osaka, Japan | DotonboriRight through my walking path was Dotonbori, another place I wanted to cross off my list. It took nearly two hours, but I’d made it to the flashing lights of the tourist strip. Dotonbori sits along the Dotonbori Canal is filled with shopping, restaurants, street food, arcades, and casinos. It’s most well-know for takoyaki which is kind of similar to a little pancake ball that is filled with octopus and then covered with delicious sauces. I decided to grab a plate from a little mother/son run cart and sit next to the canal to eat. It was interesting just to do a little people watching on this busy strip in Osaka. The perfect way to end the night.

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Himeji Castle

During BBM TRAVELS | Himeji, Japan | Himeji CastleAfter a quick and adventurous weekend in Beijing I flew into Tokyo for a two-week tour through Japan. I started with two days in the capital city before moving down to Kyoto for the rest of the week.

Last April, some friends and I took a trip to Kyoto to see the blooming cherry blossom trees which is when I first discovered Himeji Castle. I came across countless photos of the castle in my searches for good viewing spots for the cherry blossoms and couldn’t get over how beautiful it looked. Unfortunately our quick weekend trip really didn’t allow time to go to the castle, but I made it a top priority for any future traveling I did in Japan.

BBM TRAVELS | Himeji, Japan | Himeji CastleHimeji is a city in Japan that lies just a few hours train journey away from Kyoto or Osaka and is home to this centuries-old gorgeous white castle. I caught a late morning train which put me in Himeji in early afternoon; perfect timing for exploring.  After buying my ticket I took a self guided tour through the six-story castle climbing up the steep staircases with the rest of the visitors.

Once I’d made my way through the castle appreciating its dark wooden interior and fantastic views I decided to visit the gardens which lie next to it.

BBM TRAVELS | Himeji, Japan | Kokoen Garden

KoKo-en Garden is a lovely space next to the castle that houses a number of smaller gardens each with its own theme from a tea ceremony garden to a bamboo garden. My particular favorite was the pine tree garden. It was lush and smelled absolutely divine.

When I’d made my way through all of the gardens I hopped on a train back into Kyoto. I was so happy to have been able to visit the castle and cross it off of my Japan bucket list, and it really was as beautiful as I could have imagined.

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36 Hours in Kyoto

BBM KOREA | Kyoto, Japan | Maruyama ParkAnyone who knows me knows that I’m obsessed with cherry blossoms and have been since I was very young. I remember visiting my grandmother’s house growing up and staring out the window into her backyard each spring  admiring the beauty of the blossoming trees in bursts of pink and white wishing they could stay that way all year round.

Korea has some incredible cherry blossoms, but I couldn’t pass up the opportunity of living so close to Japan during this magical time of year. Luckily for me I have some friends who were willing to take a quick weekend to indulge in a bit of Japanese culture.

We left early Saturday morning and arrived in Kyoto in the afternoon. After a quick bowl of ramen and some caffeine we were ready to take on the rain and start exploring.

BBM KOREA | Kyoto, Japan | Maruyama Park
The three of us walked from our charming Airbnb through the streets of Kyoto to Maruyama Park. Along the way we found a temple and a small river covered by the sakura which allowed absolutely picture perfect photo opportunities. Once arriving at the park we took our time to wander the winding pathways soaking in all of the blooms including this unbelievable centerpiece of the park.

After a few hours in the rain we decided to hunker down in a little wine café. Not the most traditional of choices, but it’s hard to turn down an evening of wine and cheese.

BBM KOREA | Kyoto, Japan | Fushimi Inari ShrineThe following day we went straight to Nishiki Market to pick up some souvenirs and a little breakfast, and then we were on our way to the Fushimi Inari Shrine. While the shrine didn’t have many cherry blossoms it was definitely a priority of the weekend.

I’d seen tons photos of the shrine prior to our visit, however I was completely unaware of how huge this site is. I had imagined there being just a few rows of the incredible orange gates, but it turned out that there were miles of them. The shrine spans over acres of land going up and down a mountain in a hike that can take hours if you choose to walk the entire way. We spent about a two hours exploring before having to leave to make our flight back to Korea and work Monday morning.

Though it was a short trip, it was so worth it to see the blossoms and the culture of Japan in spring.

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Traveling Tokyo {day four}

BBM KOREA | Tokyo, Japan | Asakusa Senso-ji TempleAs our trip to Tokyo was coming to a close  the Asakusa Sensoji Temple was at the top of our list for our last day in the city, and we began our venture to the other side of Tokyo.

Living in Korea, I’ve seen a number of palaces and temples so I thought I knew what to expect, however, the Japanese temples are completely different from those in Korea. For one the color scheme is much warmer. Korean palaces have a cooler scheme made up of mostly greens and blues while the Asakusa Temple was mostly red and black and looked much more like what you would imagine a temple in Asia to look like. Something about it just seemed more sacred, though I couldn’t quite pinpoint why.

I was excited and surprised to see a long market pathway leading us to the temple. I love a good market. It was mostly touristy items and souvenirs along with a few snack shops thrown in. We stopped occasionally to look at various items, but our goal was to see the temple. We arrived later in the afternoon and were lucky to be seeing it right at dusk. The lights began to turn on right as we were arriving making it really quite magical.

BBM KOREA | Tokyo, Japan | Asakusa Senso-ji TempleOne of the most memorable parts of visiting the temple was a small area to get your fortune. This was especially exciting to see as it was the start of the Chinese New Year. They had instructions set out in English and the process began.

We followed the directions, shaking a metal box until a wooden stick came out. Then we had to match the Japanese characters from the sick to a little box in the wall. When you find the box, you open the drawer, retrieve your fortune, and replace the stick in the metal box.

It was fun to see your fortune right as the new year began, and have an idea of what was to come for the year ahead and life in general. Luckily, none of the four of us received a “bad” fortune, in which case we would have had to fold it and tie it to a stand near the temple. It was a cool and interesting experience and having a little wisdom for the future never hurts.

With this visit to the temple, we ended our time in Tokyo. It was such an incredible weekend, and  it’s always exciting to be immersed a new city and culture. I’m definitely looking forward to another trip at some point while living in Asia.

BBM KOREA | Tokyo, Japan |

Traveling Tokyo {Day Three}

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Our next stop after the fish market was Harajuku. With Gwen Stefani in our heads, we made our way via the subway. While it is a tricker system than most cities, people were once again very helpful and made sure we arrived at our proper destination. After getting only slightly turned around upon exiting the subway we eventually made it to the famous street.

Harajuku is one of those places where you instantly know you’re in the right place as soon as you turn a corner. One minute we were walking down a quite side street, the next we were in a bright and bustling land where music was blasting, crazy clothing shops were prevalent, and crepe stands filled the street.  It was so fun getting to see the fashion and hoping in and out of clothing stores.

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Later that night and after a quick dinner we were ready for our night in Tokyo. We decided we would walk to Golden Gai, which wasn’t terribly far from our weekend apartment in Shibuya. However, being that it was February and quite cold at night we found ourselves seeking shelter along the way. This is how we found the European Beer Cafe. We selected this bar mostly because the sign was written in English and we assumed a beer cafe couldn’t be a mistake. We were not disappointed.

BBM KOREA | Tokyo, Japan | European Beer Cafe

We opened the outside door to find it was a basement level bar. Climbing down a small flight of stairs we came to a little wooden door. What stood behind was made for a cozy English evening written about in storybooks. We walked in to find a small bar with maybe 30 seats or so, ten of which were in a steep loft overlooking a wall of glassware and bottles. We picked our table and our beer and settled in for an hour of warmth before attempting the walk to Golden Gai once again.
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A couple of hours later we had made it to Golden Gai.  If you haven’t heard of this part of Tokyo, it’s essentially a collection of tiny alley ways which house over 200 bars. That said, bar is a loosely used term. Many of these so called bars are actually part of the owner’s home and only fit a handful or so of people. Talk about cozy. What is so cool about this area is that I really can’t imagine there being something like it anywhere else in the world; certainly not in the U.S.

We had read that it was not uncommon for many bar owners to turn down foreigners due to lack of space or not wanting to work with the language barrier. We were warned that we would probably be given “the X” which is when the owner would simply put his or her arms out in the shape of an X loosely, yet literally, translated as “you can’t sit with us” …and we received quite a few. Surprisingly out of 200 plus bars we were having trouble finding even one to let us have a seat. My favorite experience in our search was walking up a steep and narrow staircase, many of the bars were located on the second floor of these small buildings, only to see a small, frail hand- no face or body to be seen- come around and slowly close the sliding door right in front of our faces. Message received.

Having walked by and been turned down by dozens of bars we were starting to feel nervous about the rest of the night when we decided to circle back to one of the bars with a sign reading “no cover. no scams. foreigners welcome.” We skipped this bar on our first go around thinking the place with an English sign saying “no scams” would probably be the most likely place to be scammed. However, 30 minutes in the cold and dozens of rejections starts to change your mind.

We made our way up yet another narrow staircase to find a relatively spacious bar that sat about a dozen patrons and even had a little bit of extra standing room. We took it as a good sign that a handful of foreigners were leaving just as our group of four was walking in. We were the only ones in the bar just long enough to get a drink and some snacks from the bartender as he showed us how to play some vintage 90’s games we had nearly forgotten existed in our childhoods. Anyone remember crocodile dentist?

As the night went on we found it increasingly harder to leave. We were joined by some members of the U.S. Army, fellow expats teaching in Korea, and even a couple of local Japanese regulars. One of my favorite parts of the night was stumbling upon a guitar in the corner of the bar and discovering someone knew how to play. The entire bar, which was completely now completely packed with upwards of 20 people, joined in for a few choruses of Oasis’ “Wonderwall”.

Looking around at the collection of people I was surrounded by, all crammed into this unbelievably small wood paneled bar with walls covered in travel photos, post cards, and world currencies, I couldn’t help but feel beyond grateful for the opportunities that led me to be in this place with my best friends. It’s an incredible memory to have as I continue in my travels and time living abroad.

The next day would be our last in Tokyo, and we were excited to visit the Asakusa Senso-ji Temple.

Traveling Tokyo {Day Two}

After waking up refreshed and ready for the day we headed out early to the Tsukiji fish market. I don’t think I had many expectations of what this fish market would be like and as it turned out, I was pleasantly surprised.

After an initial scare the market might be closed on a Sunday morning we decided to embrace the empty side streets and venture into the market anyhow. We walked by the few stands that were open before landing in a shop that I couldn’t have imagined existed even in my dreams. As we rounded a corner we saw a few stacks of beautiful dishes that caught our eye. Anything you could think of from serving dishes, to individual plates and bowls, along with mugs, tea pots, and flower vases. The items displayed on the street caught our eye, but the small shop had even more to offer than I had expected. Stacks upon stacks of traditional, ornately painted blue and white plates and bowls. Earth toned, modern shaped serving dishes. Japanese style tea sets complete with handle-less tea cups, and tea pots hanging by their wooden handles. It was somewhat akin to shopping the home goods section of Anthropologie, except this was the real deal for a fraction of the price.

Having picked out far too many pieces I was happy to have plenty of room in my suitcase for the extra finds. The local couple who owned the shop was incredibly kind; realizing we would be traveling, they packed our pieces with extreme care, ensuring everything would make it back safely.

sushi for lunch

Leaving the sweet little dish shop nearly an hour later we expected to be walking back into the same quiet streets of the market. Wrong we were. In that hour all of the store fronts had opened, locals swarmed the back streets of the market, and merchants were selling everything one could imagine coming from the sea. We spent the next few hours popping in and out of shops, sampling tea, and indulging in seafood stopping just once to sit down for an early sushi lunch.

Once we were confident we had walked down each street twice we were ready to move onto the next item on our list, Harajuku.

{Don’t miss Traveling Tokyo Day One}

Traveling Tokyo {Day One}

BBM KOREA | Tokyo, Japan | Traveling to TokyoOne of my favorite aspects of living in Korea is the access I now have to other parts of Asia. While I have to say that Japan was never on my bucket list of places to venture off to it turned out to be one of the most fun traveling experiences I’ve had abroad thus far.

Having wonderful friends in town for the week, we wanted to take advantage of a long weekend off of work. And when you live in Korea, Japan really is a weekend getaway. We went into the trip weary hearing that the Japanese locals weren’t entirely welcoming of travelers from the U.S. That said, we honestly weren’t expecting much. Just a new experience with old friends. However, once we arrived we were surprised just how friendly everyone was. Many people spoke English and those who didn’t were very patient as we tried to communicate what we were hoping to buy or find. A couple of locals even approached us when we were clearly lost looking for our weekend accommodations.

After a day of traveling, wandering the city, an incredible bowl of ramen, and time spent overlooking Shibuya Crossing we were ready for a good nights rest and an exciting full day in Japan which would start with  the Tsukiji fish market.